Sarah in Madagascar: March 2013

Having a visitor come to Madagascar was wonderful in so many ways, but especially because it was my sweet sister, Stephanie. One thing that I enjoyed was seeing Madagascar through her fresh eyes. She did a wonderful job at being adaptable and flexible with our schedule and unexpected situations. Plus, it was entertainment for me because she’s absolutely hilarious. Her commentary had me frequently (and uncontrollably) laughing. Her new observations reminded me to take a step back every once in a while and allow myself to take note of things that maybe don’t seem as “vaovao” (new) anymore.

So this blog is dedicated to some of the comments Stephanie had about Madagascar, as well as my own “fun facts” that perhaps you didn’t know. I also asked her to send me some observations in her own words. That way you can hear from her voice about how she saw Madagascar.

Stephanie:

From the moment I stepped off the plane it felt like a different place. By morning, it was like a different world.

I needed to get a short-term visa, I needed some help filling out my info at the airport so a couple of nice guys "helped me". Turns out you're suppose to tip them.....I didn't. Then you wait in line for an hour while everyone's passports get stamped. The passports pass by 4 different people who stamp, sniff and do all sorts of things to your passport before you actually get it returned. Then you catch your bags and head out the airport as you are faced with hundreds of Malagasy folks waiting for their guests. Your sister greets you {That’s ME!} and tells you to "smile and wave to the people". {Which she did – hahaha!} After she has a good laugh about that, you think to yourself, "where am I?".

You drive down streets that look like abandoned alley ways...but they're streets. Then you go to sleep under a net because, although all the windows have bars, none of them have screens. After you settle in bed you think to yourself "Where am I?".

Morning comes and a whole new world is opened up to you as the reality of where you are settles in. You are in a land where a security system is a locked gate, an 8 foot wall with the top lined with glass and the outside perimeter is surrounded by large thorn bushes. Your meals take 2 hours to prepare because they make everything from scratch and it's all cooked over coal. What's a microwave? And how would I get enough energy to use one if I had one? If you want to travel anywhere it's by foot or bus. If you go by foot there's always the danger of stubbing your toe on the uneven cobble stone, walking in dirt and mud puddles or getting hit by a bus- because it appears you are now as important as a possum crossing the street. If you travel by bus you are crammed into a bus in which the max capacity was maxed out 7 people ago....and more are coming.

* When I picked her up from the airport, there were people trying to help us with our luggage (in exchange for money). I spoke to them in Malagasy saying that we didn’t need their help, that we were strong and could do it ourselves, but thanked them for their effort. Stephanie was a bit taken aback by my newfound ability to (roughly) speak a different language “It’s weird for me to hear you speak a new language. It’s like you’re just making those words up…. I feel like you’re a different person.” It’s true. I know I have changed. I don’t exactly know how just yet, but I can feel it.

* The frequency here is Ariary. They use bills 99% of the time (although there are coins for 10, 20, and 50 ariary which are worth virtually nothing – but you can get a piece of hard candy for 50 ar.) The 100 and 200 ariary bill is equivalent to about 5 and 10 cents, respectfully, and gets passed around a lot. A lot of passing and not a lot of hand washing causes these bills to get quite dirty - so much so that you can hardly tell their original color of the bill. (Each bill has different color and/or size). When Stephanie first saw a 200 ar bill I had laying around, she said with surprise:

“It looks like somebody whipped their BUTT with this!” Needless to say, this was one of those comments that had me bent over laughing.


Top: What a 200 ariary usually looks like. Bottom: What a FRESH 200 ariary looks like

* We attended both Catholic Church and Lutheran Church while she was here. When it comes time for the offering, both denominations walk up to the front of the church to put their money in different baskets placed on the altar. Although this can take 20 minutes (sometimes more if there’s more than one offering), they see it as a respectful act - bringing their money forward to God.

On Christmas morning at the Catholic fiagonana (church), there was a manger scene set up to the left of the Alter (complete with a white baby Jesus, naturally). During the offering, there wasn’t a smooth system of approaching the altar as their usually is. It seemed more complicated than it needed to be. Steph and I were just “letting it happen” figuring we would never understand why things were taking longer than usual. And then Steph said “Look, Sarah! They’re laying their money in front of the manger”. Turns out, it wasn’t about making a “smooth, easy, single file line”, it was about giving reverence to the baby Jesus (despite his unrealistic pigment of skin).

* Stephanie and I took several types of busses while she was here. We took something like 13 bus trips both in my community and for our travels (and that doesn’t include all of our return trips). It’s always an interesting experience, riding the bus in Madagascar – it’s practically a sport.

Anyways, one of the most memorable bus rides was during one of our bus trips to a national park (it’s only 3ish hours from Tana, but it took us 3 busses to get there). Both Stephanie and I were squished in the middle seats (she was sitting in front of me), while our knees were pulled up uncomfortably close to our chest because under our feet were huge sacks of rice.

Coming off the bus she said “I can’t feel my legs! And I’m pretty sure I was sitting on an old man that whole time!”

Usually we strap our luggage to the top of a van while traveling. But this was a “city bus” in Tana, so we had our laps full of our belongings. Needless to say, it wasn’t the most comfortable. And it made snacking quite a challenge.

Strapping on the luggage to the bus

* Simple pleasures become simpler. It's an exciting day when you turn the sink on and water comes out or if you're able to keep the light on when it rains because the power has stayed on! You sit next to a child on the bus (so much room!).

* The people are poor by economic terms, but they are rich in culture, hospitality and love. There was a woman who worked/ran? a cheap hotel (the room cost $3 a night). The place was dirty and sketchy but when we asked her where the ocean was she WALKED us there with the 2 children she was caring for. She not only walked us there but stayed with us to show us around the beach so we could play in the water for a while. What hospitality! What kindness!

The hospitality of the Malagasy was overwhelming, especially when I first got here. It is common to find polite people in my community who are interested in learning about who I am, where I come from, and practice their English with me. It also helps that they are patient with the Malagasy I speak to them.

* There is beauty in Madagascar. The rainforest, mountains, rice patties - it's lovely if you get a chance to see it. But there is also beauty in the people. Yet, how is it that you can find a beautiful view of a river and rice patties then see that they dump loads of trash along the river bank? Then your eyes shift to the two young boys swimming down the river....real life!

I am constantly surprised with the splendor of Madagascar’s landscapes. Being in the city isn’t the most attractive, but even just an hour out of the city you can be in the midst of breathtaking mountains/hills. {Disclaimer: being a Minnesotan, any high altitude seems like a mountain to me}. And I feel like I have so much more Mada to see!

* Things are more random, everything is a process, and people work so hard.

Random: they sell white dolls when all their children are brown. They had Christmas scenery set up so you could take a photo with it {the props on the set were random knick knacks like stuffed animals, dirty plastic toys – but ALWAYS some sort of Santa Clause}, and elves on stilts. Their outfits don't match, it is 90 degrees and that man's wearing a winter coat - is he honestly cold? And why did that woman just drink out of that jar, dump it out and sell it to us?? {inside joke}

Stepanie loving on a plastic Santa

Everything is a process: To cook takes hours, and that's after making several stops to pick up what you will get for dinner. Laundry takes a few hours (get it done before the sun is lost or it takes even longer!).

People work so hard: It is not uncommon for people of all ages to walk around without any shoes on. You will see women who carry their children on their back and a basket of items on their head as they walk down the street without shoes on their feet. Young boys will carry bundles of wood, or you might see them pushing and pulling carts of goods uphill; you can tell they use all their strength because they not only will push with their arms but their head as well.

There are ALWAYS people up before the sun rises. And if you’re like mama (my supervisor), you’re up at 4am, work all day, eat dinner at 8pm and then go to bed. The Malagasy are an inspiration to me in so many ways, but especially their work ethic.

* After having lunch with the Madagascar country coordinators, Austin and Tanya, Steph said: “Sarah, Austin and Tanya are Da Bomb!”

Self explanatory. Stephanie and I met up with Lee and surprised Austin & Tanya by Christmas Caroling for them Christmas Eve morning. We spent the morning chatting, making fake snow, and eating Christmas cookies. It was such a blessing for me to be able to share a part of my heart (Stephanie) with people who are so essential to my wellbeing here. J When we got home, Steph told me how lucky I am to have such awesome coordinators. Efa mahay aho, Steph (I already know).

We were REALLY excited about eating gushers (one of the gifts Steph gave me) Austin, Tanya, Stephanie, Me, and Lee.

Those are just some of the comments and observations from Stephanie. I’m sure she’d love to share more stories if you ask her about them… like the creepy Santa we met. Haha! Good (& awkward) times! J

We laughed, we cried, we sang Christmas songs as we walked along the beach, we made random friends, we danced in the street (wait… that was only me), we spoke Malagasy, we ate delicious & weird food, we walked through a knee deep river of mud and debris in the pouring rain (ask Stephanie about that one too!), we played with Marzette and Solange, we bickered (we’re sisters – it’s gonna happen), we loved, and we greatly missed the rest of our family.

Here are some other highlights of our time together: